Stems, Sheer & Strips

Shaping the stems is definitely, as someone put it " a bugger of a job". I used a small block plane, spokeshave and surform to begin the shaping. I also used a caliper to maintain a 1/8" edge.
My father came by this morning with Mr. John DeVries - a Master Carpenter as well as choir director - from the Holland Home to give me some lessons in using a spokeshave & plane. The big lesson was to keep them sharp. While I considered frequent sharpeing once a year or so Mr. DeVries informed me that I might have to shapen it every few hours - especially since there was epoxy in the stems. I purchased a Stanley sharpening kit and now know how to do it. Another lesson learned. I was also trying to shave way to much at one time. The key it to just get a little slice.
Setting the sheer strip is one of the most important steps in building. Beginning with the center station it runs outward parallel to the water line. When I did the kayak I put the bead side up but with this I put the cove up. This makes it much easier to lay in the glue. The sheer must be "fair". This means that it follows as gentle line without being forced out of shape.

Once the first sheer strip is put in place the second one needs to match it. The way to do this is by leveling across between each station. This is another reason why it was so important to get the strongback level every which way. It all went quite well and I was excited to get started installing the strips after all the preparation work.

Now I have to decide what pattern I will create in this canoe. I have a variety of shades of red cedar from quite light to fairly dark. I wish I had a few strips of Alaskian White Cedar or or Black Walnet but I'm not confident enough to cut and route my own so I'll work with what I have.

Noah's ships their cedar strips with each board that was cut wrapped together in 7 strips. I have 9 bundles of 7 strips so as I unwrapped them I labeled each with a number from 1 -9. This will enable me to put strips on opposite sides and create a balance. I'm still trying to figure out what kind of a pattern I will create. Wait and see.

I have chosen to build this canoe without staples in the strips. When I built the "Spring Run" I used staples in the hull and did the deck withouth. It takes a bit more time but I find its well worth it to avoid all those staple holes. There are several different methods to go "stapleless" depending on how fast you want to work. Since I usually only do one strip at a time on each side I have developed my own method. I have a load of 3" strips that are beaded & unbeaded. As I install the cedar strip I install a short piece above it and staple that. Then I use masking tape to pull all the strips tight together and put two unbeaded strips on each side of what was glued with a squeez clamp to hold it fast. I find that each strip takes me about 30 minutes which is fine with me. So, I actually am using staples but not putting them in the strips of the canoe.

Here are the first 3 stripss installed. You can see the little glue syringe that they sent with the kit. One fill with glue does about 1 strip on 1 side. It really works great. In order to keep the strips parallel to the waterline I will also be installing strips in the bow and stern on the bottom (or top depending how you look at it) of the sheer to fill in that section. Its very exciting to see the canoe taking shape. At this rate I don't think I'll have any trouble finishing it to auction off atPaterson Habitat's annual dinner in April