Saturday, December 17, 2011

Planking

I've been making good progress planking the hull and pleased how it is coming out. I've been using a variety of techniques to install the strips without staples. Here you can see that I'm planing up the hull toward the bottom and the top at the same time. I shave the stem as I go to match the angle to each strip as it is installed.

Here is a jig that was recommended by Ted Moores in Canoecraft & Kayakcraft. Its basically a 31/2 x 51/2 piece of plywood with a 3/4 inch notch cut out. It can handle 3 strips at a time but I'm only using one. I'm using it to put pressure on the temporary short cedar strip that I have stapled in above the strip being installed. It also provides pressure, along with a shim, on keeping the strip close to the station. It works very well.

Here's an overview picture of the canoe as it takes shape. I'm finding my way with the shades of cedar to create a pattern. Hopefully it looks good. It takes me about 2 hours to prepare and install 4 strips on the top and bottom. I find it very relaxing and rewarding.

Here is a little video to give you a look around the canoe.


Monday, December 5, 2011

Stems, Sheer & Strips

Shaping the stems is definitely, as someone put it " a bugger of a job". I used a small block plane, spokeshave and surform to begin the shaping. I also used a caliper to maintain a 1/8" edge.
My father came by this morning with Mr. John DeVries - a Master Carpenter as well as choir director - from the Holland Home to give me some lessons in using a spokeshave & plane. The big lesson was to keep them sharp. While I considered frequent sharpeing once a year or so Mr. DeVries informed me that I might have to shapen it every few hours - especially since there was epoxy in the stems. I purchased a Stanley sharpening kit and now know how to do it. Another lesson learned. I was also trying to shave way to much at one time. The key it to just get a little slice.
Setting the sheer strip is one of the most important steps in building. Beginning with the center station it runs outward parallel to the water line. When I did the kayak I put the bead side up but with this I put the cove up. This makes it much easier to lay in the glue. The sheer must be "fair". This means that it follows as gentle line without being forced out of shape.

Once the first sheer strip is put in place the second one needs to match it. The way to do this is by leveling across between each station. This is another reason why it was so important to get the strongback level every which way. It all went quite well and I was excited to get started installing the strips after all the preparation work.

Now I have to decide what pattern I will create in this canoe. I have a variety of shades of red cedar from quite light to fairly dark. I wish I had a few strips of Alaskian White Cedar or or Black Walnet but I'm not confident enough to cut and route my own so I'll work with what I have.

Noah's ships their cedar strips with each board that was cut wrapped together in 7 strips. I have 9 bundles of 7 strips so as I unwrapped them I labeled each with a number from 1 -9. This will enable me to put strips on opposite sides and create a balance. I'm still trying to figure out what kind of a pattern I will create. Wait and see.

I have chosen to build this canoe without staples in the strips. When I built the "Spring Run" I used staples in the hull and did the deck withouth. It takes a bit more time but I find its well worth it to avoid all those staple holes. There are several different methods to go "stapleless" depending on how fast you want to work. Since I usually only do one strip at a time on each side I have developed my own method. I have a load of 3" strips that are beaded & unbeaded. As I install the cedar strip I install a short piece above it and staple that. Then I use masking tape to pull all the strips tight together and put two unbeaded strips on each side of what was glued with a squeez clamp to hold it fast. I find that each strip takes me about 30 minutes which is fine with me. So, I actually am using staples but not putting them in the strips of the canoe.

Here are the first 3 stripss installed. You can see the little glue syringe that they sent with the kit. One fill with glue does about 1 strip on 1 side. It really works great. In order to keep the strips parallel to the waterline I will also be installing strips in the bow and stern on the bottom (or top depending how you look at it) of the sheer to fill in that section. Its very exciting to see the canoe taking shape. At this rate I don't think I'll have any trouble finishing it to auction off atPaterson Habitat's annual dinner in April